Why are we so obsessed with protein? A new book seeks answers

Protein
Samantha King and Gavin Weedon
Duke University Press

I knew protein mania had hit the mainstream when reality star Khloé Kardashian’s protein popcorn ad appeared (no pun intended) on the same day I heard comedian Stephen Merchant seriously discuss nutrients on a funny podcast.

Protein plays an important role in many aspects of our health, from building muscle and fighting infection to regulating hormones. That’s not to say it’s more important than other nutrients like carbs or fat, but it definitely has its time in the wellness sun. So the book release Protein: The making of a nutritional superstar feels perfectly timed.

Its authors, Samantha King of Queen’s University in Ontario, Canada, and Gavin Weedon of Nottingham Trent University in the UK are both sociologists who specialize in sport, health and the body. Here, they look at how the cultural obsession with protein came to be. The problem is that they also don’t answer the questions that I, and probably most readers, are looking for.

Instead, they begin by explaining at length the nuts and bolts that led to the discovery of amino acids (the building blocks of proteins) and even how the molecule got its name—information that didn’t particularly excite me. When they finally delve into how protein came into the limelight, they attribute its success to its appeal across demographics: it’s the key to fitness for millennials and Gen Xers, an energy provider for baby boomers, and a muscle-loss preventer for the elderly.

Both ends of this age spectrum are clearly particularly susceptible to such marketing. For millennia, King and Weedon have placed this susceptibility in the hands of the “manosphere,” arguing that “protein-fueled bodybuilding is becoming salve for Trump’s wounded masculinity.” For their older counterparts, the pair argue that protein supplementation is a political and economic doctrine to reduce public health spending on conditions such as sarcopenia, the progressive loss of muscle mass and strength that is associated with both old age and insufficient protein intake.

It’s not that these points are necessarily bad, but they seem theoretical. King and Weedon never convincingly present evidence to tie these arguments together.

One thing I do agree with them on is that most people who are healthy enough to eat a protein bar probably aren’t deficient in this nutrient—much like how wellness influencers who add a spoonful of “superfood” green powder to their kale and blueberry smoothie probably don’t need the extra vitamin C it contains.

As a health journalist, I know it’s really hard to be protein deficient if you live in a high-income country and consume the recommended 2000 to 2500 calories a day. Current UK guidance advises that we consume 0.75 grams of protein per kilogram of body weight per day. This can be achieved with a few snacks and meals, although it should increase if you exercise a lot.

I was hoping to read Protein and determine whether these guidelines should be withdrawn. I also expected to be told if my consumption should change over the course of my life or even over the course of my menstrual cycle. Other unanswered questions include whether you can have too much protein and the best vegan source.

Frustratingly, research on such questions is limited and often contradictory. When it comes to consuming too much, our body breaks down excess protein and excretes waste products as urine, so buying protein popcorn could literally be money down the toilet. This is also indicated by research eating too much protein for too long it taxes the kidneys and increases the risk of heart problems.

I didn’t finish Protein with more clarity on the subject, and sociologists may not have been in the best position to address these nutritional questions. But putting it out there, when we’re all considering our intake, surely means that, like me, most readers will close the book still wondering, “How much protein should I actually be eating?

Two more interesting books on diet

Off the scales
Aimee Donnellan

Reuters columnist Donnellan argues for a reevaluation of obesity following the success of a new line of GLP-1 drugs such as Ozempic, which will hopefully reduce stigma around the condition.

Ferment
Tim Spector

Spector, the founder of the nutrition company ZOE, convincingly guides the reader through the benefits of consuming fermented foods without the book coming across as an advertisement for corporate dietary supplements.

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